Scrimshaw Restaurant at The Desmond Hotel got a summer make over that was 30 years in the making and, according to new Dining Room Manager Frank Rivera, diners seem to approve.
“On a dollars and cents side of it, we’ve seen our check averages go from about $45 per person, pushing toward $70 a person now,” said Rivera. “We’re getting a return on the investment we’ve put into the room.”
Besides aesthetic renovations that enhanced the dining room’s already elegant atmosphere (fine crystal, crisp linen, fresh flowers, warm candlelight, model ships and sailing paintings reminiscent of a sea captain’s home, energy efficient lights that off a softer glow), new Chef de Cuisine Stephen Fratianni thinks he knows the other reason diners are satisfied.
“I go out into the dining room at least once an evening and speak to some of our longtime guests … and everybody I’ve spoken with absolutely loves the changes and thinks the food is fantastic,” said Fratianni. “I’ve actually had a few tables that I see almost once or twice a month.”
At the end of August, Scrimshaw reopened and unveiled a new menu and wine list, as well as a market seafood page that changes monthly. Fratianni said after consulting with his executive chef and executive sous chef, all were in agreement that Scrimshaw favorites must be preserved, but with a twist.
“There were a lot of classics on the menu we wanted to keep; stuff that’s been keynotes here for a number of years,” said Fratianni. “We had to figure out how to make some items innovative but also maintain respect.”
That means staples like prime rib, veal oscar and Chatueaubriand are still around, but with Fratianni’s special touch.
Another change that Rivera said lead the renovation plan is tableside service.
“We have tableside prep for certain menu items. Wait staff went through 20 hours of intensive training … learning to carve a rack of lamp tableside or prepare a Caesar salad tableside,” said Rivera. “There’s a whole generation of diners that have never experienced tableside service … we had to step up our game by reaching into the past and putting a great polish on it.”
Lots of careful research went into finding the perfect dining room formula and Rivera said he thinks Scrimshaw has found one that provides a dining experience rapidly fading.
“We looked at what the fine dining scene in the Albany area is. When you look at some of the hotels’ fine dining rooms and unfortunately business has been such that a lot of the famous rooms have closed down,” said Rivera. “Our philosophy was to stay the course and our goal is to become the premier fine dining destination in Albany.”
Revamping the décor and serving style (classic French brigade) are immediately noticeable changes, but there were also some behind the scenes alterations diners might never be aware of.
“The market seafood menu page that changes monthly allows them to get creative. They let us go on the boats to see what their production is,” said Rivera, referring to a seafood supplier from Boston. “We have the favorites but if you’re looking for something new and contemporary we can offer that to you as well.”
The Desmond is located at 660 Albany Shaker Road. Scrimshaw Restaurant opens at 5:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and is closed Sunday and Monday. For more information about Scrimshaw, to view a menu or to book a table online visit www.desmondhotels.com. To make a reservation by phone call 869-8100.
